TRAVELOGUE BALI
Introducing Bali – A Mini India in Indonesia
Even though Indonesia is the world's most populous Muslims majority nation (86.7% of Indonesians declared themselves Muslims in the 2018 census.), majority of population in Bali are Hindu. In fact, Bali is the only Hindu-majority province in Indonesia, with 86.9% of the population adhering to Balinese Hinduism. Most Indonesian Hindus are Balinese. Not to say that there are numerous beautiful mosques and churches in Bali and the complete population live together in harmony and have respect to other religions.
If you are an Indian travelling in Bali, you might feel as if you are in a middle level city like Indore or Tiruchirappalli, away from husle and busle, with very few high rise buildings. Apart from Denpasar which is capital of Bali province, majority of the roads are single. Even though there are traffic jams, but you rarely encounter honking and people patiently drive and obey traffic rules. Of course this is unlike India. The crime rate is very low and you may have make efforts to see a policeman on the street, This is also in contrast to India. Most of the houses are single storey.
Hindu religion is embedded in all aspects of Balinese life. Centuries ago, Hinduism was brought to Bali by Sage Markandeya, who came from India with 800 followers via Borneo, Sumatra, Mount Demalung in Java to Gunung Agung, the highest mountain (9944 ft) in Bali. Here, on the southern slopes, he established the mother temple Pura Besakih, the largest and holiest temple on the island. The religion practiced in Bali is Balinese Hinduism which though is very similar to Indian Hinduism, has number of differences.
Ramayan and Mahabharat epics are followed (as in India) and have become integrated to Balinese life. As you come out of Denpasar airport and travel 200 meters, you encounter statues depicting the battle of Karna and Ghatothkatchh (son of Bheem) in Mahabarat.
Statue of Lord Rama on the Roadside
In the city, you will also see the statues of Lord Rama, Sita and Lakshman, Hanuman. Bheem and others. The trinity Gods – Brahma (the creator), Vishnu (the protector) and Shiva (the destroyer) are very much worshipped here.
Statue of Ghatotkchh (Bheema's son) and Karna on the Roadside
Statue of Bheema
Concept of Achintya
Achintya (from Sanskrit: अचिन्त्य, "the inconceivable", "the unimaginable") is the Supreme God of Indonesian Hinduism especially in Bali. Achintya is equivalent to the metaphysical concept of Brahman of Indian Hinduism. All gods and goddesses are believed to be the manifestation of the Achintya in Balinese Hinduism.
Depiction of Achintya as Radiating Sun God
Achintya is emptiness, and considered as the origin of the Universe, all other divinities emanating from him. Prayers and offerings are not made directly to Achintya, but also to the other manifestations of the deity. He is often not even represented, in which case he is only evoked by an empty throne on top of a pillar inside Balinese temples.
The concept of Achintya is same as Advaita vedanta philosophy of ancient India which was promoted by Adi Shankaracharya. It emphasizes "nondualism", (often equated with monism) and refers to the idea that Brahman alone is ultimately real, while the transient phenomenal world is an illusory appearance (maya) of Brahman.
Bali Temples
Bali is known as the land of a thousand temples. But, in fact, the island has more than 10,000 temples. In Balinese, Pura stands for temple. Temples in Bali are the homes of deities. Normally there are at least 3 public temples within each village in Bali:
1. Pura Puseh (Temple of Origin) built to honor the God of Creation (Brahma),
2. Pura Desa Bale Agung built to honor the God of Life (Visnu)
3. Pura Dalem built to honor the God of the death and reincarnation (Shiva Durga).
Visitors are only permitted in certain sections of the temple if they are dressed appropriately (in a sarong) and behave respectfully. However, the central area (Inner Sanctum) of some sacred temples is reserved for religious activities only and is off-limits to all visitors.
As places of worship, Balinese communities put in significant effort to ensure that their temples are as beautiful and well-maintained as possible, reflecting the significance of these buildings in Balinese society.
In addition, every house and business establishment has a small temple dedicated to Achinya.
Every day outside homes, shops and street corners you will spot locals making ritual offerings or Canang sari, a small palm-leaf basket with flowers, rice and incense. It’s mandatory to include a trio of objects to represent the Divine Trinity – gambier or catechu (kattha) for Brahma, betelnut for Vishnu and tobacco and lime for Shiva. In Bali, there is divinity at every doorstep.
Offering in front of the Houses/Shops
The temple architecture in Bali follows the Balinese architecture principles which is developed from Balinese ways of life. This includes the spatial organization, the communal-based social relationships, as well as philosophy and spirituality influenced design. The common theme often occur in Balinese design is the tripartite divisions.
A typical temple is laid out with three courtyards separated by low walls pierced by ornate gateways. The outer courtyard is for secular pursuits, with pavilions used for meetings, resting performers and musicians at festivals. Food stalls are set up here during festivals.
The middle courtyard is a transition zone between the human and divine sections; here offerings are prepared and temple paraphernalia are stored. The inner courtyard is the site of the shrines and religious ceremonies. The shrines are known as merus and are square structures with brick bases and multiple pagoda-style thatched roofs; the number of roofs reflects the status of the deity, and is always an odd number.
Traditional Balinese architecture, adheres to the concept of -
Tri Hita Karana: the concept of harmony and balance consists of three elements; atma (human soul), angga (nature), and khaya (gods).
Tri Mandala: the spatial concept describing three parts of realms:
- Nista Mandala (jaba pisan) - the outer and lower mundane less-sacred
realm (the outer zone),
- Madya Mandala (jaba tengah) - the intermediate middle realm (the middle zone) and
- Utama Mandala (jero) - the inner and higher most important sacred
realm (the holiest and the most sacred one).
Despite their visual differences, all Balinese temples adhere to the same three principles of Balinese design philosophy:
1.
Keep the Human–Divine Connection Subtle.
2. Keep the
interaction between people and their natural environment
positive.
3. And keep the social atmosphere open and friendly.
In a perfect world, this is called harmony.
The most sacred and most important temple is Besakih, a towering mountain-top structure of many smaller temples and staircases. It is known as the “mother temple” and is treated with great veneration.
Balinese temple usually contains a padmasana, the towering lotus throne of the highest god, Acintya (Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa in modern Balinese), the pelinggih meru, (a multiple roofed tower similar in design to the Nepali or Japanese pagoda), and various pavilions, including bale pawedan (vedic chanting pavilion), bale piyasan, bale pepelik (offering pavilion), bale panggungan, bale murda, and gedong penyimpenan (storehouse of the temple's relics).
As mentioned before, the sacred zone i.e. Utama Mandala (jero) if off limit to the visitors. The inner courtyard is the site of the shrines and religious ceremonies. The shrines are known as merus and are square structures with brick bases and multiple pagoda-style thatched roofs; the number of roofs reflects the status of the deity, and is always an odd number.
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balinese_architecture)
Candi Bentar (Split Gates)
Candi bentar, or ‘split gateway’ is a classical Balinese and Javanese gateway. It is commonly found at the entrance of temples, religious compounds, palaces, or cemeteries in Java, Bali and Lambok. It denotes a mountain that has been split into two. Mountains are considered sacred by the Balinese. It is basically a candi-like structure split perfectly in two to create a passage in the center for people to walk through. In contrast to the very ornate shape and decoration of the main faces, the sides of the passage are left completely plain. The passage is usually elevated with a flight of stairs to reach it.
These intricately carved gates are seen as portals that connect the physical and spiritual world. Symbols and mythological characters are often carved into the stone, including scary monsters believed to prevent evil spirits from entering the sacred temple. The guardian dragons and demons that flank the stairways leading up to the gateway have a similar role. It's designed to radiate ethereal feelings. As one steps through, a line is drawn between the outside world and entry into holy grounds.
Split gate is a characteristic of Balinese architectural design. It symbolizes the rwa bhineda (Rwa bhineda literally means “two opposites”) i.e. philosophy of balance. It denotes , (according to Balinese Hindu teaching) the existence of the two opposite energies that always coexist and complement each other to create an equilibrium, night and day, man and woman, happy and sad, and many more pairing things.
Split Gate
They represent male and female energy, and when the two unite, they create positive and negative energy. They are designed long, thin and high to squeeze out negative energy and protect the inner temple. There's also a wall directly behind the gates to block and screen any negative energy that may have slipped through.
Swastika
European visitors are often surprised to see the swastika adorning temple walls and sacred objects in Bali. While a version of the symbol is now infamous as the Nazi symbol, the original swastika is the oldest religious symbol in existence and is found in many cultures and religions. In Balinese as well as Indian Hinduism, Swastika represents good fortune. Like a lucky charm, this symbol is used to ward off negative forces. This is why you will find it carved into doorways and thresholds. You may also hear the greeting Om Swastiastu, which is also derived from swastika and means ‘May you attain prosperity and peace’.
Balinese Calendar
Most people know of two kinds of calendar systems: the Solar System and the Lunar System. The Solar system mostly used internationally is based on number of days taken by earth for one rotation around the sun. So one Solar year has 365 days on the average. The Lunar system (used in some Asian countries) is based on the time taken by the moon to make one rotation around the earth; which is 29 days + 12 hours + 44 minutes for one Lunar month. Thus 12 times the above (roughly 354 days) makes one year for the Lunar system.
Bali uses yet another calendar system which uses Wuku system based on the week. There are 30 weeks in one cycle (Balinese: otan) and two otans in one year. Thus one otan equals 210 days and one year has 420 days.
The Balinese calendar system is used mainly for religious purposes such as: to know the auspicious days for farming & raising animals, starting a business etc. The Balinese also believe that there are specific days to do a certain activity, or to have a special ceremony. Examples are days to get married, days to start building a new house, but also smaller things like a special day to get a haircut, to make a new fence for the animals at home or to get a blessing ceremony for an existing building.
In order to find out when these days occur, the Balinese will go to a special priest who is able to read the calendar. He will know exactly when it is a good day for the above.
So if you see Balinese men all with a new haircut around in Bali, you know it has been a good day on the calendar to get that haircut. Same goes for weddings, don’t be surprised if you receive 5 wedding invitations for the same day!
Unique and Amazing! Isn’t it?
Bali has such a unique and special culture, rooted very deeply into the daily life of not only the Balinese, but everyone residing or visiting the island. Besides the temples on every corner of the street, the daily offerings placed everywhere, the endless ceremonies and arts and crafts of the local craftsmen, there is actually something very significant that makes Bali even more special.
Naming children – Balinese way
In general, Balinese people name their children depending on the order they are born, and the names are the same for both males and females. The firstborn child is named Wayan, Putu or Gede (pronounced as Gaiday), the second is named Made (pronounced as Maaday) or Kadek, the third child goes by Nyoman or Komang, and the fourth is named Ketut. If a family has more than four children, the cycle repeats itself, and the next ‘Wayan’ may be called Wayan Balik, which loosely translates to ‘another Wayan’.
In Balinese culture, an 'I' is placed before a name to indicate a male, and 'Ni' denotes a female.
First Child: Wayan, Putu, or Gede.
Second Child: Made, Kadek or Nengah.
Third Child: Nyoman, Komang.
Fourth Child: Ketut.
The 5th child will be named Wayan Balik, “Balik” which means “return, again, repeat”.
T This is the first name. It is followed by another name as identification of individual and family. The name of our guide in Bali was Made Indra Maysa.
Building Height and Coconut Tree in Bali – Amazing!
All the buildings in Bali must not exceed 15 meter or around 3rd floor. According to local community any building should not exceed the height of coconut tree.
This is as per Bali local regulation made in the early of 1970s.
Bali's building height should not be higher than coconut trees or maximum 15 meters only.
One might argue that height of coconut trees vary and thus the limit is not logical, but this only this term or symbol is widely acceptable by locals.
The reasons of this regulation are to appreciate local wisdom (Hinduism) and not be higher than the highest pura Bali, which is Pura Besakih. On average, a mature coconut tree is about 20 meters high, or ~66 feet. The regulation also aligns with Bali philosophy that emphasizes three principles for prosperity -
- harmony among people,
- harmony with the nature/environment and
- harmony with God.
So far all investors follow this regulation and even malls and hotels are less than 15 m tall. Kuta Beach walk Mall in Bali is 3-floor building. Discovery shopping Mall in Bali and all villas in Bali also follow the regulation.
However, there are some exceptions -
- Hotel grand Niko (Hilton) in Nusa Dua Bali has a 14-floor and 40 meter tall. It was built in 1996.
- Another hotel Grand Bali Beach hotel is a 10-floor hotel. However it was built in 1966, before the regulation was introduced.
The local authorities are under pressure from investors to do away or relax this regulation. Thus we may see many high rise buildings in Bali in future.
(https://www.quora.com/Is-it-true-that-buildings-in-Bali-must-not-exceed-the-height-of-a-coconut-tree)
Kite Flying in Bali and Religion
Anyone who visits Bali notices the dozens of multicoloured kites, high in the air seeming to float with the clouds.
Kite flying is one of the favourite games of Balinese kids. Besides being a playful activity for children, kite-flying is an ancestral tradition for Balinese people.
Like almost everything in Bali, kites have a religious and spiritual significance. For Balinese Hindus, kites are a way to get closer with the gods. Kites were originally used to send messages to the gods and to implore for a bountiful harvest. The creation of these traditional kites is a complex process and all the village take part in its construction, and offerings and prayers are made to bless it.
Kites on the Road side (for sale)
Flying Kites
The frame of the kite is made of tensile and strong bamboo, covered with a colourful cotton cloth. Each detail is crafted to symbolize elements of Balinese Hinduism. Red, black, and white are commonly used colours. Red symbolizes Brahma; Black is for Shiva and white represents Vishnu. The most common shapes are called Bebean (representing a giant fish), Pecukan (a leaf shape) and Janggan (representing a bird with a very long tail).
Since the larger the kite is, the higher it can go, Balinese kites are designed to be huge. The kite’s body can reach the size of 10 meters, without the tail. At least 50 people must help with the transport of these gigantic kites and get them airborne. But before the kite can make its maiden voyage to the Gods, ceremonies are held by a Balinese priest to purify and give power to the sacred kite.
Bali
Kite Festival is held every
year between July and October. The exact dates are scheduled
according to the weather conditions. The festival takes place over a
few weeks on Padanggalak
Beach in Sanur. It’s
an international event and an important kite competition for hundreds
of Balinese villages. Prizes are given to the biggest and most
creative kites.
Multiple
contests and celebrations occur during the period. The festival is a
delight for all ages, where everyone can experience a bit more of the
magic of the Island of the Gods.
(https://ovationdmc.com/flying-kites-in-bali/)
Bali Dances
A trip to Bali isn’t complete without enjoying its cultural and traditional activities.
The island is known for special art performances, ceremonies, magical history, and many more. It is home to many different traditional arts and dances, all of which are popular with both locals and foreign tourists.
There is a great richness of dance forms and styles in Bali. There are various categories of dance, including epic performances such as the omnipresent Mahabharat and Ramayan. Certain ceremonies at village temples feature a special performance of a dance-drama. Many dances depict a battle between the evil and the good.
Two mythical characters Barong and Rangda play important role in dance dramas. Rangda, the witch representing the evil, and Barong, the lion or dragon, representing the good.
Barong is a panther-like creature and character in the Balinese mythology of Bali. He is the king of the spirits, leader of the hosts of good, and enemy of Rangda, the demon queen and mother of all spirit guarders in the mythological traditions of Bali.
Barong is portrayed as a lion with a red head, covered in white thick fur, and wearing gilded jewelry adorned with pieces of mirrors. It is played by two men moving in coordinated fashion, The man in the front performs the movement of face and mouth as well.
Literally, the word Rangda means widow. She is depicted as a old woman, with long and unkempt hair, pendulous breasts, long-hoofed nails and claws. Her face is traditionally a horrifying fanged and goggle-eyed mask, with a long, protruding tongue.
The battle between Barong and Rangda is featured in the Barong dance to represent the eternal battle between good and evil. The battle usually reconciles in harmony or balance of the Rangda and the Barong, instead of a defeat of the evil. The origins of the these characters are far back in time and quite uncertain. It could be from animist worship, before Hinduism appeared, when villagers still believed in the supernatural protective power of animals.
Bali dancers learn the craft as children, they are played Balinese music. They are taught to dance with their hands before they can walk. Official training as a Bali dancer starts as young as 7.
In Balinese dance the movement is closely associated with the rhythms produced by the gamelan, a musical ensemble specific to Java and Bali. Multiple levels of articulations in the face, eyes, hands, arms, hips, and feet are coordinated to reflect layers of percussive sounds.
The famous dances in Bali include:
- Kecak Dance (The Balinese Fire Dance), Barong Dance (Balinese Dance Involving the Giant Lion), Frog Dance (A Traditional Dance Drama),Wali ( Sacred Dances of Bali), Bebali (Semi-Sacred Dances of Bali), Balih-Balihan (Entertainment Dances of Bali), Legong Dance (Balinese Dance Drama), Joged Dance (Balinese Dance to Celebrate Harvest), Topeng Dance (The Mask Dance), Wayang Wong (Balinese Dance Drama Narrating Ramayana) and Arja (Balinese Dance Opera)
(https://www.holidify.com/pages/dances-of-bali-1465.html)
Bali as Tourism Destination for all
Bali is main tourist destination and tourism-related business makes up 80% of its economy. The leading international tourists arrivals in Bali are from Australia followed by India. Tourists from China, U.K, and U.S.A also come in large numbers.
Bali has something to offer to every budget and every kind of traveler. You can laze on the beach, hike up a volcano or explore its rich culture and traditions. Whether, you are a Honeymooner, Youngster, Animal and Nature Lover, Family Group or Cultural Explorer, Bali has destinations to suit your needs and desires. We present some of the sites and activities that are very popular in Bali. There are many more and one should explore before deciding.
a. Adventure Activities for youngsters
1. Flyboarding At Benoa
2.
White-Water Rafting At Payangan Region
3.
Jump Cliff At Aling Aling Waterfall
4.
ATV Ride-In Ubud
5.
Jet Packing At Nusa Dua
6.
Kite Surfing
7.
Paragliding At Denpasar
8. Diving At Manta Point
9. Trekking Gunung Batur
Mountain Trakking is stopped now. The new rule applies to Bali's 22 mountains, which have now been closed indefinitely for climbers. In 2021, local police confirmed that a pornographic video was filmed on Mount Batur, an active volcano popular among climbers and considered one of Bali's most sacred spots.
10. Bali Flying Fish
b. For Honeymooners
1.Uluwatu – Honeymooners’ Paradise
2.Mount Batur– Ultimate Natural Setting
3.Canggu –For The Beach Babies
4.Crystal Bay On Penida Island– Romancing With Nature
5. Git Git Waterfalls – Where The Nature Speaks
6. Menjangan– Water Sports And More
7.Pasir Putih Beach– Soak The Sun
8. Pura Besakih Temple– Learn The Religious Aspects
9. Nusa Lembongan– Explore The Marine Life
10. Sanur Beach –For Breathtaking Views
11. Gili Islands– Spend Some Time In Isolation
12. Padang Padang Beach – Exotic Getaway
13. Menjangan Island – A Great Maritime Experience
14.Waterbom Bali – For A Refreshing Experience
15. Nusa Dua Beach – Known For Its Charm
16. Ulun Danu Temple – Religiously And Historically Significant
17.Bali Marine And Safari Park – Witness The Wildlife In Natural Habitat
18. Bali Zoo – Interesting Place To Hangout At
19. Jatiluwih Bali – Lush-Green Fields And More
20. Tirta Gangga – Enticing Palace Of Water
21. Campuhan Ridge Walk – Lose Yourself To The Beauty Of Landscapes
22. Nyang Nyang Beach– Take A Stroll
23. Goa Gajah– Seek Blessings
24. Sekumpul Waterfall – Click Candid Pictures
25. Botanic Gardens Bali – Take A Romantic Stroll
c. Bali Destinations for Animal Lovers
1. Ubud Monkey Forest
2. Sangeh Monkey Forest
3. Bali Safari and Marine Park
4. Bali Bird Park
5. Gili Meno bird park
6. Bali Bird and Reptile Park
7. Bali Zoo + Night Zoo
8. Kemenuh Butterfly Park
9. Elephant Safari Park
d. Family Destination in Bali
1. Ubud
2.
Nusa Lembongan
3.
Mount Batur
4. Uluwatu Temple
5. Bratan
6. Tanah Lot Temple
7. Nusa Penida
8. Ubud Monkey Forest
9.
Sekumpul Waterfall
10.
Waterbom Waterpark
11. Safari and Marine Park
12. Dream Museum Zone
13. Lake Batur
14. Sanur Beach
Normally tourists visiting Bali decide on mix of the above destinations, as per their choice, no. of days, budget etc. The advice of tour operator also plays a prominent role.
Planning the Trip
For us planning a trip is tedious and time consuming exercise and starts with research on the country as a whole – its economy, law and order situation, demography and culture. This is followed by study of the above points for the cities we propose to tour. Next come the sights and activities. We also study the places/sights offered by different tour operators on the internet and decide on a provisional list of sites. We also decide on the number of days we wish to spend on tour.
In the next phase we start interacting with possible tour operators, invite their proposals with inclusions and exclusions. After careful consideration of all factors we decide on the final tour itinerary and the tour operator. Budget, no. of days, our previous experience play very important role.
Our planning for Bali trip had started in 2020. Since we are senior citizens, the adventure sports as well as honeymoon destinations were not in our list. The aim of our trip was to understand the Bali culture apart from enjoying the sightseeing. We had even finalized the day wise itinerary with tour operator Mansi International with whom we had very good experience and rapport. But then Covid happened and for almost 2 years our life became standstill.
In March 2023, we revived the proposal and with some alterations we finalized the itinerary for 7 Nights/8 Days trip from 12 June 2023 onward. Our daughter who had visited Bali after her marriage, played important role in drafting our final itinerary.
Where Mansi International was our Indian tour operator, Exotic Bali was was local tour operator in Bali. Lunch was included in our tour from Day-2 to Day-6.
We also learned some phrases in Bali language (called Bhasa locally) to interact with locals.
Hello - OM SWASTYASTU - ओम स्वस्तियास्तु
Thanks – SUKSMA – सूक्ष्म
Welcome - MAULI
Bye – OM SHANTI SHANTI
These phrases, brought smile on the face of locals.
Day 1 (12 June 2023) - Arrival in Bali
We started our trip to Bali on 12 June 2023 at 00.05 HRS from New Delhi by Vietjet airline. We reached Bali at 13.05 HRS (local time) on 12 June 2023 itself via Ho Chi Minh city (Vietnam). In terms of time difference Delhi is behind Bali by 2.30 hours.
Vietjet airline is budget airline in true sense. They don’t serve even water in the flight free of cost. You end up purchasing water bottles after security at exorbitant cost. It is unlike Indian budget airlines like Spicejet and Indigo where they gladly supply water without any charge.
We spent some time at Bali airport to procure Visa on Arrival. Before we came out of the Airport, we were greeted warmly by Bali Tourism representatives. They gladly allowed us to take photographs with them.
Greeting by Bali Tourism Representatives
The driver was present at the gate with signboard of our names. His vehicle number and mobile number was already sent to us by WhatsApp. The driver took us to Hotel Bali Rani introduced us and got the check-in formalities completed before leaving.
We relaxed in our room which was quite spacious with good view of swimming pool from balcony. After bath and tea I went down to nearby money exchange to get local currency i.e. ruppiah. I also purchased water bottles as hotel had rule to supply only 2 water bottles everyday.
We then went to a nearby Indian restaurant ‘Spice of India’ for dinner.
Dinner at Spice of India
After dinner we walked on the street to get feel of the place. After some time we came to our room and relaxed.
Bali Street
Day 2 (13 June 2023)- Nusa Penida Island Tour
Since our tour was to start at 6.00 AM, we had requested packed breakfast to be provided by the hotel. In the morning, we reached the reception at 6.00 AM, the breakfast was ready at the counter. We saw a hotel employee doing Puja (worship), chanting mantras and moving to different corners of the hotel. He stopped at the small temple in the front corner of the hotel and placed the offering. We later saw this offering in front of almost every shop in Bali.
We took some photos of the front of the hotel till our transport arrived.
In Front of Bali Rani Hotel
The car came at 6.30 AM and transported us to Sanur Harbour. The driver fixed up our rest of the arrangements, took our photo and sent to all concerned. When call came we boarded the speed boat for our next journey.
At Sanur Harbour
Inside Speed Boat
The speed boat took us to Toyapakeh pier in Nusa Penida where our guide was waiting with car. He already had our Photo. We went to Nusa Penida sites. The guide told us that these sites were promoted in social media in 2010 and have now become No.1 choice for tourists.
We first went to site called Broken Beach. It is said to be a massive cave once upon a time when a land slide down caused a hole in the beach and cave was washed away. This hole created the beautiful spot. We spent some time there sitting and taking photo with a backdrop of broken beach.
At Broken Beach
At Random Spot
Then we moved to the nearby site called Angel billabong which is widely known as
Natural Infinity Pool at Nusa Penida Islands. It is beautiful site where gap between two rocks and crystal clear bluish water creates the impression as if nature has created this wonder. Rocks are actually eroded by the waves of sea water and created a shape like a small swimming pool.
According to local people the name Angel Billabong Beach came from mythic story that angels used to come here to take bath. The word billabong in English means the end. The end of a river that is dead-end. This happens to be the final estuary of the Nusa Penida River which is crushed by coral cliffs before reaching the open sea. Thus the name Angel Billabong.
We took no. of photos with with the natural pool in the background at Angel billabong.
At Angel Billabong
We then departed to Kelingking Beach Secret Point, which is one of the most famous sites of Bali. The view from the cliff is simply beautiful. It looks like a T- Rex dinosaur chilling by the beach. There is a way to go down to the beach but the guide advised us not to take risk and we didn’t venture that.
It doesn’t matter where you have the view of this secret paradise from,one will eventually fall in love with the coastline of Nusa Penida. Many have rated this as one of the most beautiful sights in the world let alone Bali.
We spent around half an hour there appreciating the site from cliff and different angles.
The guide then took us to a restaurant where Indonesian lunch was booked for us. Since it was Tuesday, I was on fast but on my request they prepared a fruit plate for me. My wife took rice and vegetable curry and she enjoyed it.
We then moved to our our last point of the day i.e. Crystal Bay Beach. Many foreigners were lazing on the beach and taking bath. It was good and water was clear. Resembled Goa beaches. We changed to swimming costumes and went inside to enjoy the sea waves. After about half hour we came out and changed to our regular clothes.
We started our journey back to pier and then to Sanur harbour by speed boat and then to our hotel by car. Since we were tired, we took bath and slept for some time. In the night we went to a Indian vegetarian restaurant called Satvik. The food and service was good and the cost was similar to India. Came back to hotel and slept.
Day 3 (14 June 2023) - Uluwatu Temple Tour
Today our program was to start at 12.00 PM, we decided to relax in the hotel by the swimming pool and other locations.
.jpg)
At 12.00 PM our guide Made Indra Maysa came. He had not come for first 2 days. He took us to an Indian Restaurant where buffet lunch was booked for us. After lunch we departed for Uluwatu temple.
Uluwatu temple
Uluwatu Temple, or Pura Luhur Uluwatu, is renowned for its magnificent location, perched on top of a 70-meter-high steep cliff protruding above Indonesian Ocean. The Temple heads east, unlike other Balinese temples which face west or south. The views from the bottom of the water surging up against rocks and the ocean horizon are remarkable.
This 1,000 year old Bali temple is one of the island’s most famous tourist sights because of its impressive cliffs, sunset views, traditional Balinese ‘Kecak’ fire dance, and the notoriously sneaky Uluwatu monkeys that like to hang out near the temple. The Balinese Hindus believe that the powers of the Hindu Trinity — Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva — merge here. That belief results in making Uluwatu Temple a place of worship of Shiva Rudra, the Balinese Hindu deity of all elements and aspects of life in the universe.
As one of the 6 key temples considered to be Bali's 'spiritual pillars', Uluwatu also shares the splendid sunset backdrops as that of Tanah Lot Temple, another important sea temple that graces the island's western coast.
The temple is inhabited by monkeys, who are notorious for snatching visitors' belongings, such as slippers, cameras, and sunglasses. They can usually be persuaded into ransoming the items for fruit, nuts, water bottle or candies. They are believed to guard the uluwatu temple from bad influences.
Scientist and experts on primate behavior have conducted studies on the monkeys in the area and have concluded that this bartering behavior is passed down by the senior monkeys to the young offsprings who quickly adapt and learn the skills.
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uluwatu_Temple )
We roamed around the temple and appreciated the Balinese architecture, traditionally-designed gateways, and ancient sculptures all very beautiful. We spent around half hour witnessing the sea waves striking the mountain. As cautioned by the guide, we were very careful and didn’t take anything out of our bag. But we witnessed two incidences of monkeys snatching items from tourists and returning them after ransom was paid.
In the first case, goggle of a lady was snatched. The monkey sat on the tree branch patiently waiting for barter deal. When the lady kept a coke bottle on the floor, the monkey took it and dropped the goggle. In the other incidence, the item was slipper and the ransom was candy.
At Uluwatu Temple
A Kecak dance performance based on the Ramayana is performed daily in Uluwatu temple at every 6.00 PM on the cliff-side. The performance which is outdoors also shows the beautiful sunset at the background of the performance. We decided to view the dance performance on the recommendation of our guide.
Kecak Dance – an Introduction
Kecak
(pronounced as Keechak) dance is said to originate from a Balinese
ancient ritual called Sanghyang, aimed as a form of exorcism or to
repel evil spirits. The dance first appeared in 1930, after Balinese
Dancer, Wayan Limbak worked together with German painter Walter Spies
to create a dramatic performance version of the Sanghyang by
incorporating the epic Ramayana saga. They took the innovation on a
world tour, thus the dance became popular ever since. It
is supposed to be
one of Balinese artistic masterpieces in the form of a dance and
musical drama.
Held
in the open air at sunset , usually above a cliff facing the sea, the
drama depends entirely on the natural light of day. Starting at dusk,
the story continues into the dark, when only light comes only from
flickering bamboo torches. What makes this dance particularly unique
is that the drama uses no artificial backdrop, involving no musical
instrument. The focus is entirely on the concentric circles of about
50-60 men, bare-chested, wearing only distinct Balinese sarongs
sitting cross-legged around a set of torches in the center.
The
music in Kecak dance is created by the chanting of the chorus of men
representing an army of monkeys continuously intoning “Cak! Cak!
Cak!”(pronounced as Chak! Chak! Chak!) or “Keh-Chak" in
polyrhythmic sounds during almost the entire performance. This
amazing human voiced orchestra is led by a soloist, who is in charge
of indicating the high and low notes, and also acts as narrator. The
effect, after a while, is to provide a wall of dramatic sound against
which the action of the play is enacted.
The performance relates
the shorter version of the epic Ramayana Saga with dancers playing as
Rama, Sita, Lakshmana, Ravana, Hanuman, Sugriva, and other
characters. The storyline starts when Prince Rama wanders into the
woods with his wife Sita and brother Lakshmana. There, the giant
Ravana kidnaps Sita and holds her in his palace. Rama then seeks help
and sends Lakhsmana to find his friend Sugriva, the King of the
Monkey Kingdom. Sugriva sends his commander the white monkey, by the
name of Hanuman, to check on Sita in Ravana’s Palace.
A dramatic scene is portrayed when Hanuman is captured by Ravana’s troops and put inside a circle of fire to burn him alive. Instead of burning to crisp, the Hanuman remains unharmed and breaks out only to burn Ravana’s palace instead. Thus, began the battle between the two forces. In the battle, Rama and Lakhsmana, with the aid of Sugriva and Hanuman along with the rest of the monkey troops, defeat the evil king once and for all.
Kecak Dance is regularly performed in many places all over Bali Island. However, the best place to watch this spectacular show is at the Pura Uluwatu, where the dance is performed daily with as background the dramatic sunset. The dance can also be found at Tanah Lot, GWK Cultural Park, Pura Dalem Ubud, Padang Tegal Stage, Batubulan, Umadewi Stage, and more.
(https://www.indonesia.travel/in/en/destinations/bali-nusa-tenggara/ubud/kecak-dance)
The open air theater where the Kecak dance was to be performed was packed to the capacity. The dance was quite enthralling. The white monkey Hanuman interacted with the public by sitting among them and entertained us in comical fashion. Another character a companion of Ravana also provided good entertainment. The whole performance with the background of setting sun was mesmerizing.
Anyone who visits Bali must watch the Kecak Dance performance.
Kecak Dance - Ravana kidnaps Sita ji.
Kecak Dance - Lord Rama sends for Sugriva
Kecak Dance - Companion of Ravana
After the dance, we came back to hotel took bath went to Satvik restaurant for dinner and slept after dinner.
Day 4 (15 June 2023) - Batic Painting, Taman Ayun Royal Family Temple, Lake Beratan & Temple and Tanah Lot Temple.
Today our first stop was to see Batic Painting which is specialty of Bali.
Batic Painting
Batik is a centuries-old technique where craftsman will apply wax to cloth in lines and dots and then dye the material to create a patterned effect. This technique originated from Indonesia and has now spread throughout South-East Asia.
The girl doing the painting gladly explained the process details and shows us different steps for which the display was set up.
At Batic Painting
For a lady no outing is complete without shopping. My wife purchased clothes with Batic painting for almost everybody in the family.
Taman Ayun Temple
Taman Ayun Temple or Pura Taman Ayun is a magnificent family temple of Mengwi empire. This is one of the most visited temple in Bali, both local and foreign tourists. It's located in Mengwi Village about 18 Km north side of Denpasar town. Taman Ayun Temple is also one of six royal temples in Bali making it very important both spiritually and historically. The temple’s name Taman Ayun translates to the ‘Garden Temple in the Water’. The temple was built in 1634 and holds a very sophisticated architectural design compared to other temples in Bali. In 2012 UNESCO awarded Taman Ayun Temple as part of the world cultural tourism site.
Taman Ayun architecture, adheres to the concept of Tri Mandala - the spatial concept describing three parts of realms:
- Nista Mandala — the outer and lower mundane less-sacred realm,
- Madya Mandala — the intermediate middle realm and
- Utama Mandala — the inner and higher most important sacred realm.
The temple complex has four different divisions, one ranking higher than the other. The divisions are designed as an open air place of worship within enclosed walls, connected with a series of intricately decorated gates between its compounds. The first is referred to as the ‘Jaba’ or outer division, accessible only through a single entrance and walkway over the ponds.
Inside, near the entrance is a small guardian shrine and on the right is a large ‘wantilan’ hall where the communal gatherings take place. The cockfight also used to take place which was enjoyed by all. A tall fountain with spouts jutting up and out to the cardinal directions can be seen in this area. This area signifies Nista Mandala (Human to Human i.e. Societal Interaction) in Tri Mandala concept.
Onto the next court, a small temple compound by the name of Pura Luhuring Purnama can be seen. A beautiful garden is also part of the compound. The second and third terraces are slightly higher than the first. This signifies the Madya Mandala (Human to Nature Interaction) in Tri Mandala concept.
East of this court is a small temple called Pura Dalem Bekak, while in its western corner is an eight metre-high wooden bell tower known to locals as ‘Bale Kulkul’. A climb up will reveal two hanging rectangular wooden bells, plus a high and spectacular view of the whole complex.
The fourth and last court is considered the most sacred, thus ranks the highest. It is referred to as the Utama Mandala. The intricately ornate central gate is open only during ceremonies, as the entryway for consecrated heirlooms and other ceremonial paraphernalia. As mentioned before, the sacred zone i.e. Utama Mandala (jero) if off limit to the visitors.
As recounted in the ancient texts of the ‘Adhiparwa’, the whole complex of the Taman Ayun Temple represents Mount Mahameru in the so-called ‘churning of the sea of milk’ (known as Samudra Manthan in India) or the cosmic formation of the world.
(https://balicheapesttours.com/taman-ayun-temple.html#history )
At Taman Ayun Temple
Lake Beratan & Temple
Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, or Pura Bratan, is a major Hindu Shaivite temple in Bali, Indonesia. The temple complex is on the shores of Lake Bratan in the mountains near Bedugul. The water from the lake serves the entire region in the outflow area; downstream there are many smaller water temples that are specific to each irrigation association (subak).
The smooth reflective surface of the lake surrounding most of the temple’s base creates a unique floating impression. The misty Bedugul mountain range surrounding the lake complements the temple's scenic backdrop. The whole Bedugul area is a popular upland weekend and holiday retreat for locals from the more urban areas in the island's south.
The temple is one of the most iconic views in Bali, and it shows up on everything from airline brochures to travel magazines. This temple’s unusual pagoda has even been featured on the 50,000 Rupiah cash note in Indonesia. It sits in the mountains at an unusually high elevation compared to the rest of Bali, so the temps are pretty cool (about 5 °C lower than at sea level).
Pura Ulun Danu Beratan is one of the nine 'Kahyangan Jagat' temples on Bali. The temple complex consists of five various shrines dedicated to other Hindu gods as well. The temple was built in 1633, to worship the Hindu trinity (Brahma-Vishnu-Shiva) and the lake goddess, Dewi Danu.
The temple is used for offerings and ceremonies dedicated to the Balinese water, lake and river goddess Dewi Danu, due to the importance of Lake Bratan as a main source of irrigation in central Bali. The 11-storey pelinggih meru in the complex is dedicated to Shiva and his consort Parvathi. Buddha's statue is also enshrined in this temple. This temple is also called the "Bali temple on the Lake" because it looks as if it is floating when the Bratan River rises.
The
Buddhist stupa of Beratan is a place of worship for Buddhists located
in the complex. Its existence is quite unique and interesting
considering its location in close proximity to the sites of worship
belonging to Hindus. This stupa signifies religious harmony. It faces
south and is located outside the main area of the Ulun Danu Beratan
Temple complex.
Ulun Danu Beratan Temple complex
After spending around an hour and enjoying the lake and temple complex we went for Indonesian lunch in a local restaurant. Then we started for our last stop of the day – Tanah Lot Temple.
Tanah Lot Temple
Tanah Lot means "Land [in the] Sea" in the Balinese language. Located about 20 kilometers North West of Denpasar, the temple sits on a large offshore rock which has been shaped continuously over the years by the ocean tide.
The main deity of the temple is Dewa Baruna or Bhatara Segara, who is the sea god or sea power.
The Tanah Lot temple was built and has been a part of Balinese mythology for centuries. The temple is one of seven sea temples around the Balinese coast. Each of the sea temples was established within eyesight of the next to form a chain along the south-western coast. In addition to Balinese mythology, the temple was significantly influenced by Hinduism.
Legends attached to the Tanah Lot Temple history are filled with fun and interesting facts about how it came to be. It is said that a high Hindu priest belonging to the Majapahit Kingdom in East Java journeyed to Bali in later part of the 15th century to spread Hinduism and associated beliefs.
He established a site in order to honour the Sea God, Varuna and inspite of facing opposition from the village chief, he successfully guarded the rock, on which he meditated, with the help of sea snakes. That is how the famous temple in Bali derived its name ‘Tanah Lot’ meaning ‘land in the sea’. It is also believed that this blessed site is where the priest attained Moksha, or enlightenment.
At the base of the rocky island, venomous sea snakes are believed to guard the temple from evil spirits and intruders. The temple is purportedly protected by a giant snake.
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanah_Lot
)
Tanah Lot Temple is one of Bali’s most important landmarks, which is famed for its unique offshore setting and sunset backdrops. An ancient Hindu shrine perched on top of an outcrop amidst constantly crashing waves; Tanah Lot Temple is simply among Bali’s not-to-be-missed icons.
The onshore site of the Tanah Lot temple complex is dotted with smaller shrines together with visitors’ leisure facilities that comprise restaurants, shops and a cultural park where regular dance performances are held regularly.
We moved around and spent around 1 hour at the beautiful site. Since it was low tide we could walk up to the temple rock. During high tide, it becomes almost impossible to approach the temple. There is a cave in the rock where people pray. There is a source of sweet water in the midst of ocean and people taste the water after praying. We prayed at the temple and tasted the sweet water as prasadam. The priest placed white flower on the top of our ears as blessing.
Tanah Lot temple Complex
In front of the temple, there is another cave where venomous snake is kept. One can touch and can feel. It is not dangerous.
The sunset is mesmerizing. The whole area surrounding the temple is beautiful.
Since it was getting dark, and we were tired also we came back to hotel, refreshed ourselves, had dinner in nearby Indian restaurant and slept.
Day 5 (16 June 2023) – Barong and Kris Dance, Silver Handicrafts, Coffee Plantation and Luwak Coffee Process, Kintamani Volcano Tour, Mount Batur and Lake Batur, Rice Terraces in Tegalalang Village, Bali Swings, Tegenungen Waterfall.
On our request, Indra our guide took us to Batu Bulan village to see Barong and Kris dance.
Barong and Kris Dance
We enjoyed the performance with Barong and Rangda playing positive and negative roles and at the end good wins over evil. The Barong dance featured battle between Barong and Rangda to represent the eternal battle between good and evil.
The dance opens with two playful monkeys teasing Barong in a peaceful environment. The next scene is popularly known as “Keris Dance”. Balinese keris dance is part of Barong dance performance, in which the dancers wielded kris as weapon.(The kris, or keris is an Indonesian asymmetrical dagger. Of Javanese origin , the kris is famous for its distinctive wavy blade, although many have straight blades as well and is one of the weapons commonly used in martial art.) This dance is considered sacred since it involves trance psychological condition.
The Rangda character appears and wreaks havoc. She casts black magic upon male dancers and orders them commit suicide. In a trance, these men stab themselves on their chest with their own kris . Meanwhile, Barong and the priest cast protective magic on these men, which makes them invulnerable to sharp objects.
The dance ends with the final battle between Barong and Rangda, concluding with the victory of Barong over Rangda. Rangda runs away, the evil is defeated, and the celestial order is restored.
The hall was completely filled and majority of people were foreigners. Everybody was engrossed in the dance when it was taking place. Anybody visiting Bali must see the Barong dance as it is central to their culture.
Barong Dance
Video – Barong Dance
Silver Handicrafts
Our next stop was the place where silver handicraft was on display. The jewelry on display was good.
Silver Handicraft
Coffee Plantation and Luwak Coffee Process
Our next stop was to see the coffee plantation and the process of making world famous Luwak coffee. We also got introduced to different kind of authentic Balinese coffee and its coffee powder making process.
Kopi Luwak is a famous Indonesian coffee that has been digested by an animal called Luwak (an Asian palm civet). It is a cat-like creature that roams the forests of Bali at night, eating ripe coffee cherries and excreting the coffee beans. When Luwak eat the coffee cherries, they only eat the outer skin and swallow the seed. After a long journey coffee comes out through the Luwak anus. It is repeatedly washed with hot water and dried for one week. After that the skin is peeled and coffee is roasted. Finally, it is meshed and strained to get finely ground Luwak coffee. It is supposed to be the most expensive coffee in the world. One cup of Luwak coffee at that place costed IDR 50,000 (around 273 Indian Rupees or 3.33 USD). The Luwak coffee also called civet cat coffee or cat poop coffee.
We could also taste some different kind of Indonesian Coffee and tea free of cost. Only the Luwak coffee was on charge (IDR 50000). We did purchase a cup of Luwak coffee and tasted it. The taste was distinctly different from other coffee we tasted so far. Some of variety of coffee and tea powder were on sale.
Luwak the coffee producer
Luwak the coffee producer
The coffee plantation
Tasting different kind of coffee
Kintamani Volcano, Mount Batur and Lake Batur
We then went to visit Kintamani Village with breathtaking view of an active volcano and lake batur from the top. We had opportunity to get the magnificent view of Mount Batur Volcano and the lake. We had lunch in Kintamani with view of volcano of mount batur and lake batur from the restaurant.
Rice Terraces and Subak Irrigation System
Our next stop was the Tegalalang Village to experience the beautiful Rice Terraces. What we encountered was beautiful scenes of rice paddies and their innovative irrigation system.
Subak Irrigation System – an Introduction
All day to day activities of Balinese people are governed by religion which is ingrained deep in their psyche. Subak. the traditional Balinese cooperative irrigation system is said to have been passed down by a revered holy man Rishi Markandeya in the 8th century.
Tegalalang forms the 3 most splendid terraced landscapes in Ubud's shared region, with the others being in the villages of Pejeng and Campuhan. For the Balinese, irrigation is not simply providing water for the plant’s roots, but water is used to construct a complex, pulsed artificial ecosystem. The system consists of five terraced rice fields and water temples covering nearly 20,000 hectares (49,000 acres).
The temples are the main focus of this cooperative water management, known as Subak. It is a traditional, ecologically-sustainable irrigation system that binds Balinese agrarian society together within the villages Bale Banjar community center and Balinese temples. The water management is under the authority of the priests in water temples, who practice Tri Hita Karana Philosophy, a self-described relationship between humans, the earth and the gods.
Tri Hita Karana draws together the realm of spirit, the human world and nature. The overall subak system exemplifies this philosophical principle. Water temple rituals promote a harmonious relationship between people and their environment through the active engagement of people with ritual concepts that emphasize dependence on the life- sustaining forces of the natural world. Rice is seen as the gift of god, and the subak system is part of temple culture.
The main components of Subak system are-
- the forests that protect the water supply
- terraced paddy landscape
- rice fields connected by a system of canals
-tunnels and weirs
- villages and
- temples of varying size and importance that mark either the source of water or its
passage through the temple on its way downhill to irrigate subak land.
- the cooperative canal system that controls the water.
These components have together shaped the landscape over the past thousand years. Water from springs and canals flows through the temples and out onto the rice paddy field. In total, Bali has about 1,200 water collectives and between 50 and 400 farmers manage the water supply from one source of water. The property consists of five sites that exemplify the interconnected natural, religious, and cultural components of the traditional subak system.
The sites include:
- the Supreme Water Temple of Pura Ulun Danu Batur on the edge of Mount Batur, Lake Batur is regarded as the ultimate origin of every spring and river;
- the Subak landscape of the Pakerisan river watershed the oldest known irrigation
system in Bali;
- the Subak landscape of Catur Angga Batukaru with terraces mentioned in a 10th-
century inscription making them amongst the oldest in Bali and prime examples of Classical Balinese temple architecture; and
- the Royal Water temple of Pura Taman Ayun , the largest and most architecturally distinguished regional water temple, exemplifying the fullest expansion of the subak system under the largest Bali Kingdom of the 17th century
These architectural sites are inspired by several different ancient religious traditions, including Shaiva Siddhanta and Samkhya Hinduism, Vajrayana Buddhism and Austronesian cosmology.
On 6 July 2012, subak was enlisted as a UNESCO World Heritage Site . Different components and Philosophy of Tri Hita Karana are also enlisted. Inscription on this list confirms the outstanding universal value of cultural or natural property which deserves protection for the benefit of all humanity.
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subak_(irrigation ))
The Tegalalang rice terraces offer a scenic outlook that spreads down before us and away to the far side of the valley. The location is cool and breezy and quite picturesque.
Bali Swings
We then moved to the activity widely named as Bali Swings. Both of us experienced thrill and adrenaline rush as we were swinging and gliding over lush green rice fields, with awesome view. It was unforgettable experience in real sense.
Video- Bali Swing
I also undertook Zipline activity and felt the thrill that being senior citizen also I could do it.
Video – Zipline activity
Tegenungen Waterfall
It was late in the afternoon and we went to Tegenungen Waterfall which was last stop of the day. Locally known as Air Terjun Tegenungan, the Tegenungan Waterfall is a beautiful natural waterfall. It is located at the village of Tegenungan Kemenuh on the Petanu River. The waterfall is isolated and has lush greenery and picturesque surroundings with fresh water that can be swum in. To reach waterfall you have to first climb and then descend down by stairs. It is possible to go very near to the fall.
Many tourists were were dipping in the pool at the base. Though, I had not brought swimming costume or extra clothes but it was so enticing that I couldn’t resist and went inside the pool.
After about 1 hour, we decided to go back to the hotel. We reached quite late, refreshed ourselves, went for dinner and slept.
Day 6 (17 June 2023) – Bat Cave Temple, Tirta Gangga and Lempuyang Temple (Heavenly Gate)
Today evening, we were to shift to Hotel Maxone in Ubud. We had planned to stay in Ubud for 2 nights as it is cultural capital of Bali. We packed our belongings, had breakfast and bid good bye to hotel Bali Rani staff by saying Om Shanti Shanti.
Bat Cave Temple
Our first stop was Bat Cave Temple.
Pura Goa Lawah (Balinese “Bat Cave Temple”) is a Balinese Hindu temple and is
located in the village of Pesinggahan, Klungkung Regency. It was built around a cave opening which is inhabited by bats, hence its name, the Goa Lawah or “bat cave” . The temple is sometimes included among the Sad Kahyangan Jagad, or the “six sanctuaries of the world”, the six holiest places of worship on Bali. According to Balinese beliefs, they are the pivotal points of the island and are meant to provide spiritual balance to Bali. The number of these most sacred sanctuaries always adds up six, but depending on the region, the specific temples that are listed may vary.
The temple was established in the 11th century by Mpu Kuturan. Mpu Kuturan was one of the early priests who introduced Hinduism on Bali.
The temple decoration evolved as time progressed. In the early 20th-century, porcelain ceramic plates were attached into the shrines and gates of Pura Goa Lawah. This treatment can still be found in other old temples in Bali such as Pura Kehen . Today, the porcelain ceramic plates decoration on the shrines and gates has been reduced.
The compound of Pura Goa Lawah is built over a hilly outcrop. The design of pura follows the Tri Mandala concept as explained before. The three mandala i.e. zones are-
- the outer sanctum of the temple (jaba pisan or nista mandala), the middle sanctum (jaba tengah or madya mandala), and the inner main sanctum (jero or utama mandala).
The entrance to the temple complex is marked with a candi bentar gate. A bale kulkul (pavilion to keep a drum) is placed to the west of this entrance. Within the first courtyard of the temple, the outer sanctum or the jaba pisan, there are three pavilions (bale) located in three corners of the temple complex. One of the pavilions is the bale gong, where the gamelan set is kept for musical performance. Access to the middle sanctum or jaba tengah is located to the west of the outer sanctum.
Three paduraksa portals mark the entrance to the innermost sanctum of the temple (jero). The inner main sanctum consists of three meru towers , one of which is dedicated to Shiva. Several smaller shrines are nested into a cave, where hordes of nectar bats rest.
The entrance to the mouth of the cave is marked with the candi bentar gates. Other shrines is a bale pavilion adorned with motifs of Naga Basuki flanking its steps. Naga Basuki is a primordial dragon who is believed to keep the balance of the cosmos.
( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pura_Goa_Lawah )
The cave is home to thousands of bats and (according to the local legend) a giant king snake wearing a crown. According to the Balinese holy scripture “The Siddhimantra Tatwa”, the giant snake, a holy dragon named Basukiis is dwelling inside the cave at Goa Lawah, disguising himself behind the thousands of bats that cling to the ceiling and walls of the natural chasm. The king dragon only leaves when he bathes in the ocean just across the cave and when he travels to the holy mother temple of Pura Besakih on the foot of Mount Agung through the tunnel inside the cave.
The locals and the temple guardians believe that the tunnels inside the cave lead to Mount Agung (Besakih), and two other areas namely Talibeng and Tangkid Bangbang.
This belief was strengthened in 1963, when Volcano at mount Agung erupted. According to locals, there was emergence of ash from the cave. Another account mentions that in the old days, a Mengwi prince used the cave as a hideout. He was once chased by his enemies; he went inside the cave and in due course followed through and eventually emerged at Besakih Temple on the foot of Mount Agung. However, these interesting tales remain unproven as no one has attempted to prove or bring light to this.
( https://www.nowbali.co.id/goa-lawah-bat-cave/ )
Today, Pura Goa Lawah is still looked after and provided with prayer on a daily basis and is considered as one of the most sacred/important temples in Bali.
Before entering the temple we were given sarong to wear. After our visit and worship, we were presented garland made of wooden beads for our good luck. These have become part of our temple in the house.
At Bat Cave Temple
We found the temple as well-managed and maintained. Our guide Indra informed as that the temple has undergone a series of renovations around its walls and gates in the outer perimeters over the years.
We then departed to Tirta Gangga, our next stop.
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga is a former royal palace in eastern Bali. It is named after the sacred river Ganges in Hinduism, and is famous for the Karangasem royal water palace, bathing pools and its Patirthan temple. The one hectare complex was built in 1948 by the late King of Karangsem: Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut Karangasem.
Building water gardens, including the designing and the labor work, was a favorite hobby of the King. As many of his visitors did not expect this, of course they were surprised to find the King himself working among his labourers, standing knee deep in mud digging out the earth.
Tirta Gangga is based on the beliefs in Balinese Hinduism , where river Ganges and its waters are considered sacred. The name Tirta gangga is derived from the words “Tirta”; (blessed water) and “Gangga” from “Ganges”, the holy river in India. Its waters are cherished for irrigation and agricultural abundance, recreation and economic activity.
The Patirthan temple illustrates the historic significance of Tirta Gangga in the Balinese tradition as a pilgrimage and holy water site.
The water gardens at Tirta Gangga Water Palace show a unique mix of Balinese and Chinese architecture. The grounds of the water garden (ca 1.2 ha.) consists of three separate complexes each with ponds and many sculptures. The complex on the lowest level has two large ponds and a water tower with clean and fresh water. At the second complex (middle level) are the swimming pools. The third level houses the main complex with the country home of the former King. Nowadays one can find a restaurant and four bungalow units (which are for rent) in this former country home of King A.A. Anglurah Ketut Karangasem.
This palace has been shaped in the form of a beautiful water garden and it is located near a natural spring. This spring wells up under a huge banyan tree which stands at the foot of a hill. At the top of this hill stands a village temple. The scenery of the area is fantastic with great views and the climate is relatively cool.
A reservoir on the grounds receives the spring water and from this reservoir. Drinking water is delivered via a pipe system to the town of Amlapura. There is also an underground pipe system which leads to the upper swimming pool, where it emerges through the mouth of a Rakshasa (a demon statue) which stands at a corner of the pool.
Here the water flows over into a lower level pool. From this lower level pool it flows into some small fish ponds and from there into the rice fields that border the gardens. In the middle of park, there are many small statues are intentionally set on the stone to decorate the park in order to make a good looking. All of the statues are taken from the Hindu Historical epos like Mahabharat or Ramayan. There is a beautiful pond with its beautiful koi fish. Most tourists come here to see the beauty of the garden with ponds and large goldfish. Almost all tourists feed the fish and take photographs with them.
In 2021, due to very high intensity rain in most of the Karangasem region, fish pond filled with beautiful koi fish was destroyed by an increased water level. The water from the damaged fish pond carried all the fish to the river and nearby rice fields. The Tirta Gangga management requested the nearby villagers to search and bring back the koi fish to Tirta Gangga in order to reduce their potential loss from the incident. A reward of IDR 5,000 per fish was also announced. With the community participation, the pond was soon filled with koi fish.
The
management of Tirta Gangga had also conducted maintenance to repair
their property as prevention.
(https://thebalisun.com/balis-tirta-gangga-fish-pond-loses-hundreds-of-koi-fish/ )
In Tirta Gangga there is a spring which is very purified by the local community, where every religious ceremony takes place, they always go to this spring to take holy water because it has always been regarded as holy. During important celebration days, colourful processions with offerings, umbrellas, flags and other tributes are held here.
Led by the local temple priests, ceremonies are held at the spring, accompanied by chanting and the music of the “Beleganjur”, a gamelan gong group of small gongs with each musician striking a specific, different note on the musical scale, all blending in harmony. You can see this ceremony on certain days only, where many villagers here will gather and pray to ask for safety and health.
( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tirta_Gangga )
( https://www.baligoldentour.com/tirta-gangga.php )
Before entering, our guide Indra suggested that we purchase the food for Koi fish from local pavement shop. We enjoyed the water palace very much and took many photographs, We also fed the Koi fish and took photos with them.
Afterwards, we went to a restaurant on the hill in the park only and had delicious Indonesian lunch.
Then we moved to Lempuyang Temple, our last stop of the day.
Lempuyang Temple (Heavenly Gate)
Lempuyang Temple locally known as Pura Luhur Lempuyang is one of Bali’s oldest and most highly regarded temples. It is also believed to predate the majority of Hindu temples on the island, and the six holiest places of worship on Bali.
The entire landscape looks very picturesque from this temple gate, and that gate also known to the western world as “The Gates of Heaven”. The name of temple “Gate of Heaven” is very fitting since the temple is located on the east of the island where the sun can be seen rising in the morning beautifully right through the Gate of Heaven.
The temple is located in eastern part of the of Bali within the highlands of Mount Lempuyang, at 1,775m above sea level. Mount Lempuyang, also known as Mount Lempuyang Luhur, is one of the most sacred natural points in Bali.
The establishment of places of worship around Mount Lempuyang is believed to predate the majority of Hindu temples on the island of Bali. The temples of Mount Lempuyang, represented by Pura Lempuyang Luhur, the highest temple in the area, is grouped one complex of temple which represents the Pura Sad Kahyangan Luhur Lempuyang.
The whole Lempuyang mountain was divided into three section which corresponds to the Balinese cosmology, the base of the mountain is known as Sang Ananta Bhoga and corresponds to the mount of Brahma.
The middle part of the mountain is known as Sang Naga Basukih and corresponds to mount of Vishnu, while the top of the mountain is known as Sang Naga Taksaka and is considered as mount of Shiva.
The sacred-most point of Mount Lempuyang is where the Pura Lempuyang Luhur is built.
Pura Penataran Agung, also known as Pura Silawana Hyang Sar, is located in the middle part of the mountain; while at the base of the mountain, the Pura Dalem Dasar Lempuyang is built.
On the slopes of Mount Lempuyang sits Pura Lempuyang Luhur, otherwise known as Lempuyang Temple. This is one of the key nine directional temples on the island of Bali, where you can find the famous Gateway of Heaven and grants spectacular sunset views at dusk as it is situated high on the mountain slope.
There are two sections to the temple, a lower level and an upper level. The latter is worth the climb up the seemingly infinite staircase – this is definitely a temple with a view. The view is very beautiful, as one encounters an amazing panorama of Mount Agung. This temple offers one of the most breathtaking views from any of the temples in Bali.
Lempuyang Temple also known as Pura Penataran Agung Lempuyang is one of Sad Kahyangan Jagad or six main temples which are believed as the pillars of Bali. The word “Sad” was derived from Sanskrit word means “six” and “Kahyangan” means “place of Gods.” Hence, “Sad Kahyangan” could be translated into “six places of Gods.” Other temples are Pura Besakih, Pura Goa Lawah, Pura Batukaru, Pura Pusering Jagat, and Pura Uluwatu .
The temple groups are considered as the “six sanctuaries of the world” i.e. the six holiest places of worship on Bali. According to Balinese beliefs, they are the pivotal points of the island and are meant to provide spiritual balance to Bali.
The Lempuyang Temple is also one of the group of temples in Bali known as Pura Kahyangan Padma Bhuwana. Each of the temple in the Pura Kahyangan Padma
Bhuwana is marked with one of the eight cardinal directions. Pura Lempuyang Luhur represents the direction of east (purwa) and the color white. This direction is associated with the domain of Balinese the god Iswara.
The design of pura follows the Tri Mandala concept as explained before. The temple compound is divided into three areas: the outer sanctum of the temple (jaba pisan or nista mandala), the middle sanctum (Jaba Tengah or Madya Mandala), and the inner main sanctum (Jero or Utama Mandala).
Entrance to the outer sanctum (jaba pisan) is marked with a white-painted candi bentar split gate. Several bale (Balinese pavilions) are located in the outer sanctum, one of them is the rectangular bale gong ("Gong Pavilion") where the gamelans are stored. Another bale in this courtyard is the bale kulkul where the percussive drum to call for prayer is placed.
Entrance to the middle sanctum (Jaba Tengah) is marked with three white-painted paduraksa portals. The entrance to the left is used for entry, while the entrance to the right is used for exit. The central door is usually closed and is only opened during the pura’s main festival e.g. the biannual piodalan festival. The central portal is where sacred objects, heirloom, and offerings could pass during festival time.
All three flight of stairs which lead to the paduraksa portals is flanked with mythical figures of Naga. Sculptures inspired by the epic of Mahabharat, e.g. of Arjuna, Bheema, and Yudhistira dots the landscape of the stair climb. On the uppermost level of these is the statue of Krishna, the worldly form of Vishnu. The uppermost inner sanctum (Jero) is the most sacred courtyard of the Balinese temple.
The courtyard of Pura Penataran Agung Lempuyang features several meru towers and pelinggih shrines each dedicated to different gods and local deities. Several padmasana shrines in the shape of empty stone thrones, each are dedicated to the highest god of Hindu pantheon e.g. the Sang Hyang Widhi and the gods of the Trimurti.
( https://balicheapesttours.com/lempuyang-temple.html )
On entering the temple we were given sarong to wear. The person present there also helped us to wear and tie the sarong. Upon entering the Lempuyang temple one is stuck with its magnificence and beauty. We felt literally overwhelmed by the sheer size and grandeur.
Indra, our guide suggested that we book for photo session at Heavenly Gate as there is going to be waiting time of at least 2 hours. He also said that we may even skip the photo session, but having come so far we didn’t want to miss it. Our token number was 407 where the running token was 205. We decided to wait along with others in two pavilions.
We then along with Indra went on to take photos of the place and environment to capture its beauty.
Indra specially arranged for reflection photos to be taken for us. It was amazing.
Lempuyang temple - Reflection Photo
Ultimately,
after almost 2 hour wait, our turn for photo session at Heavenly Gate
came. Each couple was allowed 5 photos as couple and 5 photos as
individuals. Since sun was facing the camera, photos were dark and
not very clear. But still we liked it.
Even though, there was no official charge for the photo session, our guide told us that it is customary to drop 10000 IDR per person in the basket. Accordingly, we dropped 20000 IDR in the basket after photo session was over.
.jpg)
.jpg)
I suggest that tourists must cover Lempuyang temple in the morning itself. Not only the photos at Heavenly Gate will be good but the waiting time will also be quite less.
We then started our journey towards Hotel Maxone Ubud. It was quite a rush and bumper to bumper traffic. But still, we didn’t hear any honking and people were peacefully negotiating their vehicles. This was very much against our experience in Delhi. There for the first time we saw a police man who was regulating the traffic.
Ultimately, after 2 hours, we reached the hotel Maxone Ubud. After our check in Indra bid goodbye to us with promise to come on 19 June 2023 to leave us at the airport. The hotel and the room were quite smaller than previous hotel. We quickly refreshed ourselves and went out for dinner.
Being Saturday, it was my fast day. We went on to search for a vegetarian restaurant. After little bit of search we got a good restaurant “ Punjab Grill”. The food and service was good.
We were very tired and we slept as soon as we reached our hotel.
Day 7- (18 June 2023) – Free on our own.
Today we were on our own to explore “Ubud” the cultural capital of Bali. After getting ready, we went for breakfast on rooftop restaurant. The restaurant is beautiful as there is rooftop swimming pool besides it. Since monkey forest is near the hotel, there were number of busts of monkeys placed as decoration. After breakfast we spent some time in the swimming pool.
Hotel Maxone Ubud
We started our journey for the monkey forest which was walking distance from the hotel. We thought of going to Bali Zoo and Bali Bird Park after the monkey forest.
Monkey Forest
Ubud Monkey Forest, is a sanctuary located at Padangtegal Ubud. The Monkey Forest lies within the village of Padangtegal. The village’s residents view the Monkey Forest as an important spiritual, economic, educational, and conservation center for the village.
The forest is owned by the Padangtegal community and is managed by Mandala Suci Wenara Wana Management. Village members serve on the Monkey Forest's governing council. The purpose of the management is to keep the place as sacred and promote the Monkey Forest Ubud as an international tourist destination.
The Ubud Monkey Forest describes its mission as the conservation of the area within its boundaries according to the Hindu principle of Tri Hata Karana (“Three ways to reach spiritual and physical well-being”), which seeks to make people live harmoniously during their lives.
The “three ways” to this goal under the Tri Hata Karana doctrine are – harmonious relationships between humans and humans,- between humans and the natural environment and - between humans and The Supreme God.
Accordingly, the Monkey Forest has a philosophical goal of creating peace and harmony for visitors from all over the world. It also seeks to conserve rare plants and animals for use in Hindu rituals and to provide a natural laboratory for educational institutions, with a particular emphasis on research into the social interaction of the park’s monkeys with one another and their interaction with the park’s natural environment.
About 1260 Balinese long tailed macaque monkeys live in this sanctuary. There are four groups of monkeys each occupying different territories in the park. The Ubud Monkey Forest covers approximately 0.1 square kilometres (10 ha; 25 acres) and contains at least 115 different species of trees. The park is heavily forested and has lots of hills, And a deep ravine runs through the park grounds, and at the bottom, there is a rocky stream. Trails allow visitors access to many parts of the park, including the ravine and stream. The whole atmosphere is quite serene.
The Monkey Forest grounds have a forest conservation area, a public hall and gallery, an open stage, a canteen , a first aid center, a police post, parking and toilet facilities, and a composting facility.
The Monkey Forest grounds are home to three Hindu temples , all apparently constructed around 1350. The temple are - Dalem Agung Padangtegal Temple, Holy Spring Temple and Prajapati Temple. A cemetery adjacent to Prajapati Temple receives the bodies of the deceased for temporary burial while they await a mass cremation ceremony, held once every five years.
The temples play an important role in the spiritual life of the local community, and the monkey and its mythology are important in the Balinese art tradition. The Monkey Forest area is sanctified by the local community, and some parts of it are not open to view by the public. Sacred areas of the temples are closed to everyone except those willing to pray and wear proper Balinese praying attire.
The monkeys rest at night and are most active during the day, which brings them into constant contact with humans visiting during the park’s business hours. One can observe their daily activities – mating, fighting, grooming, and caring for their young – at close range, and can even sit next to monkeys along the park’s paths.
The monkeys have lost their fear of humans and approach visitors and grab any bags containing food. They may also grab plastic bottles and bags not containing food, as well as reach into visitors’ bags and trouser pockets in search of food, and will climb onto visitors to reach food being held in a visitor’s hand.
The Ubud Monkey Forest contains a fenced enclosure for a small herd of Timor rusa (Rusa timorensis timorensis), a type of deer native to the island of Timor . Visitors can view the deer enclosure.
( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ubud_Monkey_Forest )
We were purchasing the entry ticket for the monkey forest when there was announcement that Frog Dance performance is going to be held shortly in the public hall. We immediately rushed to the public hall and reached well in time before start of the dance.
Frog Dance
The Frog Dance is a traditional play based on the story of a frog (Prince) who falls in love with a beautiful Princess.
According to legend, after being lost in the woods, the Prince is believed to have transformed into a frog. One day the prince-frog encountered a beautiful princess of Daha who wanders into his woods. He falls in love with her and wants to marry her.
The Prince proposes to marry her and she agrees, but only if he changes himself back into a human being.
With the blessing of the God Vishnu, he turns into a handsome young man again resembling the lost Prince of Jenggala. They marry and live happily ever after.
In the dance performance the story was changed to include the characters of Barong and Rangda. It is Rangda who transforms the prince to frog and Barong transforms him back to human being. There is a battle between Barong and Rangda where Barong, representing virtue wins.
The Barong interacts with the public and provides entertainment. The whole dance lasted for about an hour and kept us glued.
( https://www.travlinmad.com/blog/2015/9/where-to-see-balinese-dance-in-bali )
Frog Dance
Video – Frog Dance
After the frog dance, we went on to visit the monkey forest in detail.
We witnessed a monkey climbing the shoulder of a lady and going after her bag to search for food item. Another monkey was going after the pant pocket of a man. Both kept still as advised by us and monkeys left them.
 |
Monkey searching the lady’s bag
Monkey has snatched the bottle and trying to open it
In the company of Monkeys
We witnessed monkeys taking bath and enjoying themselves oblivious of our presence.
Video – Monkeys taking bath
There is characteristic difference between the behaviour of monkeys in Uluwatu temple and monkey forest. The monkeys in Uluwatu temple snatch any time like footwear, cell phone, bag etc, and wait for ransom in the form of eatables, They return the item only when they receive the food item as ransom. On the other hand the monkeys in monkey forest only go for food items in the bags or snatch from the hand. People rate the monkeys in monkey forest as simple. However, it may be debated.
We also saw monkeys showing love by tendering a younger monkeys.
Monkey tendering other monkey
Then we came across Balinese Cemetery which belongs to the people of Padangtegal traditional village. This cemetery is only temporary used to the corpses until the moment of mass cremation ceremony comes or waiting for an auspicious day according to Balinese calendar.
In Padangtegal village, mass cremation is conducted every 5 years. On cremation ceremony day, all the corpses that are buried in this cemetery are taken out from the graves and cremated appropriate to the Balinese Hindu tradition.
Balinese Cemetery
After spending around 2- 3 hours in monkey forest, we came out. Since my daughter had specially suggested that we must try duck in Ubud, we went to Bebek Bengil restaurant which is about 500 meters from there. The restaurant is famous for bebak i.e. duck. The duck preparation was very good but after that we felt like going back to hotel and relaxing.
Thus we decided to let go of Bali Zoo and Bali Bird Park and went back to Hotel to relax. In the evening we went to the same restaurant Punjab Grill for dinner and got lunch and dinner for next day packed. While paying the bill, I used all my Indonesian Currency.
Day 8- (19 June 2023)- Departure to Delhi
Today was the day of leaving Bali with sweet memories stored in our mind. Around 9.00 AM our guide Indra came with transport and took us to Denpasar Airport. While leaving he profusely thanked us by saying that main source of Bali’s economy is tourists like us.
We thanked him personally to make our holidays enjoyable.
OM SHANTI SHANTI
(https://kantscorner.blogspot.com/2023/08/travelogue-bali.html )
